Monday, 6 June 2011

Day 13 - Going underground!

Woke up this morning in Carlsbad New Mexico and we drove a whopping 9 hours to get to Fort Worth Texas, another state and another time zone - (now only 6 hours behind UK). 

We'd only just set off and were only on the road about 30 minutes when we had our first stop at the Carlsbad Caverns, locals have mentioned it to us as must see and it's also in the guide book.  It was described to us as a massive underground cavern - massive?  This place was absolutely huge! 

I don't think we'll ever see anything like it again, took video and photos but there is no way they can convey the enormity of the caves.  We were going to walk to them but it takes about an hour on the trail, and instead you can get a handy lift in an elevator which takes you 750 feet underground - scary stuff I thought! 

As the elevator doors were opening I couldn't imagine that we were now underground in a cave rather than in some posh hotel but here we were!  It was v chilly down there but being English we kept a stiff upper lip and didn't give in to buying an over priced hoodie in the cave gift shop. 

We were down there about an hour and half, could have easily stayed longer as there were two other separate caves to look around.  The one we chose was called The Big Room, it literally was massive, like 25 stories high, it took us an hour just to walk around it going through the various tunnels and then it would randomly open up in to huge caves.  Like I say we could have stayed longer but time wouldn't permit it, we had a big drive ahead of us to Texas.





 


En route about 3 hours into the drive the dashboard lit up again and said running low on fuel, 66 miles left it reckoned we had, that's okay cos in 30 miles there would be a town we could fill up at (Texas is so vast that there sometimes isn't a house or shop for 100 miles).  Within two minutes after the warning on the dash board it was now saying 22 miles worth of petrol - what?  I'm not good at maths but how on earth had it dropped from 66 miles to 22 miles in two minutes!!!   Right so dashboard says only enough fuel for 22 miles but the next town is in 30 miles - even my maths can work out we're going to run out of fuel before we reach the town!  No fear Oli is here, he turns off the air con, slows the speed down and repeats the word "shit" approx 88 times!!!  The radio (before Oli switched that off too), said the temperature was over 100 degrees today, no air con equals boiling inside car temperature - I've never had a bead of sweat drip down my head before (apart from laying directly in the sun sunbathing for 10 hours).  Fear not Oli's strict fuel saving methods had worked and somehow we made it to the garage to fill up - round of applause for Oli please - my hero (I say in a Texas drawl!!)

Apart from eating on the go we didn't really stop off until we were nearly at out destination (got more fuel, wasn't going to have a repeat from earlier), where we came across a tiny recreation of a town called Thurber complete with church....it used to be a coal town, was demolished in the 1930s, and then recreated in the 1990s... nothing more to mention!

I'm typing this blog at 11pm from a hotel in a town called Fort Worth about 30mins from Dallas, but with the time change our brains thinks it's midnight and we've been driving for 9 hours!  Who knew me just sitting in a car all day would be so tiring (my main source of entertainment was to pull out individual hair follicles from my legs with my tweezers for half the journey!)...Oli must be knackered from concentrating so long (on the road, not my legs)! 

Fort Worth is a small western town (there is a  real white horse parked on the opposite pavement to our hotel).  Our hotel is called Stockyards and has been restored to look how it did 100 years ago, it's exactly what you would see in an old western apart from a few tourist features such as horse saddles for stools in the bar - all great fun!



Looking forward to exploring here tomorrow before driving through Dallas towards Memphis - long live the King:-)

Nose bleeds now 3, milkshakes 2, real life cowboys 11!


J&O

Sunday, 5 June 2011

Day 12 - Out of this world!!!


It feels strange writing this blog as I've already written one this morning - but of course that was for the day before!

So now back on track - what did we do today?  Let me think.  Oh yeah, Jim!  After chatting away until the early hours with our new best friends Marie and Goiyo we probably didn't get into bed until 2 and woke at about 8.30 slightly groggy.  We said our farewells and I can even admit I got a little lump in my throat when I said goodbye to Jim.  Seems silly as I only met him the night before!

We stopped off for a quick pancake just up the road, back online that's where I was able to write the overdue blog from last night.  I wasn't too hungry this morning but so glad now that I managed to eat 2 of the 3 pancakes as we didn't stop for food until 7pm, which was in fun-themed Chili's.  Yay for pasta!

Okay so I jumped ahead there with food on the brain as usual, so let me just take a step back... so where was I?  Oh yeah, so we're back in the beast after breakfast travelling towards Roswell, the town of alien legend.

It was about a 3 hour drive.  Filled with anticipation (maybe spurred on by my memories of the TV show The X-Files) I was quite fidgety, just looking forward to getting there.  I think I must have been chatting Oli's ears off along the way because, with an hour still to go, I burst out laughing when he said "Be quiet and look for aliens"!  That boy makes me laugh...

We had about an hour to go and the landscape pretty much the whole way was fairly flat and barren - no good trying to play a game of eye spy!  Just as I thought I might drift off Oli said we were almost there.  I bolted upright and grabbed the camera ready for any alien action or ridiculous alien-themed buildings along the way.

To my utter disappointment, as we entered the town there was hardly an alien in sight.  In fact there was hardly anything in sight - no people, no cars... Okay so this was a Sunday but for one moment there we thought maybe the aliens had landed and abducted everyone living in the town!   

There was one small street where the UFO museum and research center was situated, with a couple of shops bursting with alien-themed mementos, but apart from this not much else in the way that I had expected.
 
The museum itself was fun, it exhibited the history of the Roswell incident, featuring newspaper clippings and statements from people claiming to have seen a spaceship on July 4th 1947.  I was hoping to be totally convinced or converted.  There were some interesting theories and I enjoyed learning about the supposed US military cover up (basically they claimed one of their weather balloons had crashed and that was what people had witnessed, mistaking it for a UFO) but I'm not entirely sure I'm convinced although I would like it to be true.
After exiting the museum there wasn't much else to do in the town - it's such a shame, really, as I can imagine this place was thriving back in the 90s, we were told that there used to be much more kitsch alien things around town, such as an alien diner and an alien-decorated Walmart.  It felt like the place was in need of a serious injection of a tourist boost... then again, it was a Sunday, but if the town is relying on the aliens to bring in the tourists, then there needs to be more there for the tourists to stick around and do.

We then made our way to Carlsbad, about an hour's drive away from Roswell.  We managed to find ourselves a hotel with a pink exterior to stay in for the night, can you believe it's the cheapest we've paid so far???   Who wouldn't want to stay in a pink hotel?!?!

By now it was 6.30pm, and I think this was the earliest we have found and checked into a hotel in the last week.  Usually we've been traipsing around in the dark so this was a welcome change.  With a quick dinner in Chili's we couldn't wait any longer....it was time to enter our first WalMart!  These stores are huge, took an hour just to find and buy a handful of toiletries, plus an essential pair of new Pepsi pj shorts combo!  Tonight will be a luxury to be in bed by 11pm (breaking in new Pepsi pj's) and snuggle down to watch a film, after all it's a school day tomorrow and Sundays are bath, hairwash and an early night:-)

Tomorrow will be our longest drive yet, we are leaving the friendly state of New Mexico and driving to yeehaa Texas.  Oli reckons will can do about 8 hours but with all our stop offs we shall see.

Laters!

Alien sightings 0, Nurofen Plus 2, tumbleweeds 3!

J&O

Day 11 - Not a Hostel environment!

So I'm typing this the morning after rather than the night of as I've be accustomed to doing, didn't have internet access yesterday night but wouldn't have changed it for the world - our real journey started last night when for the first time in my life I stayed in a hostel - and what fun it was!

Okay so lets start at the beginning, we woke up in Albuquerque in our fab mural-painted wall room, sadly the hotel was fully booked (all 21 rooms) for the next night due to a wedding so we had no choice but to move on.  As we arrived here in the dark the night before we decided to go back to the old town to look around in the daylight. 

The old town revolved around a plaza square, the fiesta from the night before was still going (we presume they took a break and slept)!!!  We had a mooch about in the shops buying a few trinkets and then it was back in the beast.  We decided to still go to Santa Fe even thought this was off our route but had been strongly recommended. 

It was only about an hours drive and when we got there I was pleased to see it resembled a bigger version of the old town plaza in Albuquerque.  By now it was 1pm and a perfect time for a spot of lunch, our nifty guide book (now our Bible after the fab tip on the last hotel) recommend a place called The Shed,.  They call themselves the home of creative cooking and if our warm chicken, walnut and blue cheese salad was anything to go by it was fab.  The outside is a tiny courtyard, people wait for around 45 mins to get a seat there.  They are known for their desserts (so the trusted guidebook says) unfortunately we didn't stay to sample one and there was still a lot to see in Santa Fe. 

We strolled around the plaza taking pics of their historical buildings and visited a chapel called Loretto, it's famous for having a freestanding spiral staircase that has no central support or nails - it was built in 1872 and only had a safety rail put on 10 years later.  True craftmanship at it's best.  We then sat on benches in the central part of the outside plaza soaking up the atmosphere, our ice creams were melting in the hot sun faster than we could lick them!  It was nice to watch the world go by for 10 minutes:-) 

We left pretty Santa Fe at around 4pm has we had a long drive of around 4-5 hours if we were to make it to Roswell.  About an hour into the drive we remembered a brochure I picked up in Albuquerque about a museum called Tinkertown, it has a collection of small hand-carved figurines and villages.  Understatement of the year!  We thought we'd have a quick stop off there, the place was simply amazing, I wrote in the log there afterwards that it was real art.  I absolutely loved it, this small quirky tunneled series of shacks housed an array of brilliantly made American towns complete with general store, toy shop, salons and much much more.

I have always been interested in miniature dollhouses (a fact I may not broadcast as I'm trying to appear cool) but this place has brought out my passion again.  The work this must have taken to create and the attention to detail was amazing....and it was just so fun to look at (even had push buttons to make things move). 

Just when we thought we saw it all we turned a corner and there was a whole room/shack with a full circus, including tent, animals, freak show - this whole place summed up my interests, miniature freaks!!!!!  No seriously the combination of the miniature scenes, circus, freak shows and various toys and dolls was a true trip - picked that word up from some fellow American travellers - more on that in a mo! 

The lady who ran the museum was called Carla, it was her late husband who built everything, sadly he died 9 years ago and had severe Alzheimer's.  His passion lives on in her and it's not just the exhibits that are amazing but the grounds and building they lie in.  There was also a sailing boat displayed with various news clippings, photos and info about the boat, it was made in Essex England and a man called Fritz Damler has given up his day job to fulfill his passion so bought the boat and sailed around the world for ten years, he has written a book which we bought in the gift shop.  Carla told us this man was her her brother - they really all are an inspiration to follow your dreams and be creative and live life doing what makes you happy.  I can't gush enough about this place, it should be visited by all passing as it's a real must-see...  I think I've got my life motto from this place - a poster in amongst the toys read "You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing"!

By this time it was nearly 6.30pm and we still had nearly 4 hours to Roswell.  Carla suggested we stayed around here and recommended a hostel up the road.  Me being me I had an inward shudder at the word "hostel" - my only knowledge of hostels is from the horror film "Hostel".  Carla assured us that Jim, the owner, was a real character and very welcoming and the hostel was a comfortable, homely place.  She rang him immediately to check availability and then we were on our way.



There were loads of rooms over two floors, hundreds of bunk beds.  he kindly told us if we wanted to stay downstairs it would be cheaper and we'd have the whole floor to ourselves.  We decided to book one of the private rooms upstairs with an ensuite - okay so not exactly the bunk bed hostel experience one typically thinks of but one step at a time for Bermondsey Barbie me!

Jim told us of local restaurants we could visit but offered to cook us dinner.  We didn't want to impose but after some persuasion we agreed and made our way to the grocery store.  The couple staying at the hostel were Marie and Goiyo.  They said they had barbecue skewers so we bought lots of veg, turkey burgers, nachos, dips etc.

When we got back Jim had fired up the barbecue.  We told Marie and Goiyo that the shopping was our treat.  They kindly prepared the dinner, Jim cooked the dinner so it was a team effort all round!  Getting to know one another, we all sat around the barbecue as it grew dark while Jim put the food on to cook.  Everything was delicious apart from the disastrous turkey burgers which stuck themselves to the grill - with Jim's attempt to save them with a spatula resulting in one giant turkey mass!  Ringo Starr the dog enjoyed them though...

There's so much I could tell you about last night as we had such fun getting to know each other, but I would go on for ages and this blog is already long enough!  It was like something out of a film at one point - two English travellers way out of their depth, two open-minded independent young Americans, and bearded Jim who produced his 4-foot samurai sword while telling us a dead elk's head (which he proudly shot two years ago and kept) was over at the donkey pen!

Jim didn't stay as his own home was just up the road.  When he left I joked that this was a scene in a horror film and usually only one survives the horrific ordeal.  I quickly declared that it would be me!  Us four stayed up chatting until the early hours.   We discovered that we both started travelling on 25 May, and although going now in different directions through America, they would be going to the places we had just left and vice versa.  Too much to go into but it was definitely fate that we all met last night, and they offered to show us around their hometown of San Francisco when we turn up there in a couple of months - we can reminisce about Jim and his giant sword!  On a serious note, Jim was a real character just like Carla had said, a humble man with a true heart of gold and a warmth that meant I couldn't help but love him immediately.

I don't know what the rest of our trip has in store for us but I'm so glad that we stumbled across Carla who put us on to Jim and hence meeting Marie and Goiyo.  Another case of serendipity!



It's now fast approaching lunchtime and we are in a cafe (with internet access!) just up the road from Jim's.  With our pancakes eaten it's now time to head to Roswell to see what those crazy aliens have in store for us!

Ankle bracelets 2, turkey burgers 0, elk's head 1!

J&O

Friday, 3 June 2011

Day 10 - Hot Dog, Jumping Frog, Albuquerque!


Oli and the rhino's head
With one cup of coffee and one cup of tea to go for breakfast, we headed straight to Monument Valley.  It's about 20 miles up from where we were staying.  MV is hundreds of square miles full of huge separated monoliths (basically, big rocks).  They've all been given names such as the Three Sisters, which is three long skinny rocks.  

Is this the rhino's willy?
Our favourite was the one that looked like a giant rhinoceros head.  He looked like he had been incarcerated as what looked like his willy had been separated from his body and placed on the opposite side of the road for him to stare at for eternity.  Harsh punishment - it must have been a serious crime!

Back in the car we headed off for another 5hr trek all the way through the Arizona desert, starting off with barren, reddish rocks and then eventually to lush, green landscape before hitting New Mexico.

Apart from a stopoff for a quick lunch in a roadside diner (two club sandwiches please!) we pretty much drove the whole day, listening to local radio and Michael Mcintyre's autobiography audio book to keep us company along the way.  I think today will be the last day we drive on Route 66, having been on and off it since LA.  We've seen various sights including a line of about 10 Harley Davidsons in a row burning up the highway.

We arrived in Albuquerque at about 6pm having entered a new time zone and a new state - New Mexico!  I must have drifted off asleep somewhere along the way as I jolted in a slight panic when an alarm on our dashboard went off (boy was that beeping loud!).  It told us we had to change the oil immediately.  This seemed an annoyance as it took us off the freeway onto a local street, but boy was I glad it did! The street is a traditional American Town with flashing motel signs and drive-throughs where the staff are on roller skates to bring you your meal.  It seemed charming if not slightly dated but had a real authentic feel to it.  

We found a garage who changed our oil and within half and hour we got back in the beast.  During the waiting time at the garage we looked in our USA guidebook to see what Albuquerque had to offer - the town is broken up into the new town and the old town, and the guide recommended a few hotels one of which caught my eye. A small place in the old town with only 21 rooms, Casas de Suenos (House of Dreams) was described as follows: "charming adobe-style casitas are hidden among the courtyards and gardens, each room is uniquely decorated" - sounded good.  We pulled up outside and from the side road it looked like a cross between a Hobbits house and a Mexican Telly Tubby land!  I got a good vibe straight away and as soon as we stepped in the reception I way praying they had availability.  The lady behind the counter (Pauline) was wearing the same Tiffany necklace and bracelet as I was, strange for downtown New Mexico, (turns out she was born in Liverpool but moved here when she was 12 so has no trace of a scouse accent). She was v sweet and said she only had one room available (please oh please be a king) and it's a king she said:-)  

The room is decorated in a traditional Native American style and is bursting with amazing features such as saltillo tiled floor, animal hide furniture and the best feature of all is a hand painted vibrant coloured wall mural.  We quickly showered and changed as it was now 8:40pm and made our way into the old town two blocks down.  

It was bustling with a fiesta, carnival rides, food stalls and live bands which filled the small square.  The smell was amazing and my stomach gave a lurch, the guide book plus the receptionist at the hotel recommended a cafe for dinner called The Church Street Cafe, said to occupy the oldest house in the city and serving New Mexican cuisine.  We dashed to it as Pauline told us it closes at 9pm, with only minutes to spare we made it just in time.  

Cheers to New Mexico!
We asked to be seated outside and were walked through the restaurant which featured antique Native American art and rugs on it's walls.  We asked to sit outside as it was such a lovely evening and were shown to a pretty courtyard where grapevines entwined with fairy lights decorated the beams, a guitar player gently strummed away while we dined - this was the real deal!  

We ordered strawberry and lime frozen Margaritas and had traditional Mexican food.  The service was fab and the staff were really friendly, asking us about our trip and giving suggestions of where to visit.  We were the last two people left in the restaurant but the staff were in no hurry to chuck us out.  We ordered our bill and Oli noticed that they had not included our drinks to which the waitress replied it's a gift to welcome us to New Mexico - seriously these people couldn't have been any kinder:-)

Now back in our fab room I think we've decided that if we can have the room again tomorrow night (reception now closed) we will stay on another day - fingers crossed!  If this is so we shall now detour to Santa Fe tomorrow and then explore the new and old town here the day after.

Lets see what tomorrow brings!

Oil changes 1, roadkill 18, good vibes 100:-) 

J&O

Thursday, 2 June 2011

Day 9 - Detour day!


It's been a long day travelling today - we covered nearly 400 miles!

The view from our balcony in Sedona this morning


The non-sunrise at 5.15am
We started the day waking up at 5.15 for the sunrise in Sedona.  I could barely open my eyes but managed to pad my way out onto the balcony.  Cameras in hand ready to go, Oli and I waited patiently.  It wasn't exactly the romantic picture I had in mind, just for the fact that it got lighter and lighter and we couldn't see the sun - our beautiful picturesque view of the mountains totally blocked it!  Ah well, we can see the sunrise somewhere else on route, but we'll never see that beautiful view again.

We managed to put our heads down for another couple of hours before getting ready to wander around beautiful Sedona.  It's a lovely place and the landscape is jaw-dropping as far as the eye can see.  The town itself is in keeping with the scenery - you won't find a McDonald's here!

A viewpoint in Red Rock canyon
All the small hotels, cafes and shops have a traditional hippy cowboy feel to them - I was hard pushed to find a tacky magnet to buy!  The people are really friendly and can't seem to do enough for you.  The atmosphere is really relaxed and calming.



Leaving Sedona behind
We drove the beast around the state park of Red Rock and took some fab pictures but time was ticking and we still had a long way to drive so it was time to leave pretty Sedona in peace and head 100 miles or so north.  We were planning on driving straight to Monument Valley but a local couple we got chatting to suggested we detour towards the sunset volcano crater as it's a sight to be seen - so we did!   


Sunset crater lava flow

Again this had picturesque views which went on for miles and miles, hardened lava covered a huge part of the surrounding area, quite a contrast to the natual untouched beauty not too far away.  Within the perimeters of the national park was a spot called the Painted Desert, this again was miles of beautiful landscape, so hard to get your mind around how vast it all is. 

Forest fire
A few more snaps later and we were back in the beast now heading another couple of hundred miles towards Monument Valley, while videoing out of the window I noticed smoke covering the montains behind us (some even have snow on but on the ground it's baking hot), Oli saw what seemed a small forest fire a few miles back and now it seemed it had spread hugely, time to put out foot down and drive outta there!

 
We had about an hour to go to get to Monument Valley when Oli saw a sign for the Grand Canyon 30 miles off our route, so close we had to divert towards it.  

I was just saying in my blog yesterday that we didn't do the helicopter trip from Vegas to see it but this was too close not to.  It was well worth the 1:15 hour round trip to see it, amazing sight standing right on the edge of it....I'll eat my words it's sooooo much more than "just a big hole"!!

A panoramic view of the famous "big hole"!

A little later than scheduled we arrived in Monument Valley, again we hadn't pre booked a room but found a lovely place just off the highway, a quick dinner in Monument Valley surrounded by the sights as it grew dark and the sky became awash with stars.  Oh yeah we didn't realise that MV is in Utah (just borders Arizona) and is an hour in front, so strange that we could practically have one leg in Utah and one in Arizona and be in two different times zones!

Plan for tomorrow is to look around Monument Valley and then head to Albuquerque the largest city in New Mexico.

Magnets bought today 3, moonpies 2, petrol - 22 gallons!

J&O 

Wednesday, 1 June 2011

Day 8 - A week today!

We started our trip exactly a week ago today, and we said goobye to Vegas this morning as we set off on our way to Sedona.  The two things we never actually did in Vegas this time were gamble or visit the Grand Canyon - ah well we did it the first time around and I'm sure we'll go back again someday!

Just before leaving Vegas we couldn't resist a quick stop off at the Little White Wedding Chapel, where we got married two years ago, for sentimental reasons.  The last time we were back there I barely remember the place as I was in an excited haze of prenuptial bliss so this gave me a chance to look around the chapel properly.

 

They allowed us to take a few snaps inside - we even tried to recreate one wedding picture!  They did ask if we wanted to renew our vows but as it's only been two years and we're not Heidi Klum and Seal we figured we'll give it a few more years if we decide to do it.

Seated back in the beast (Oli still makes his way around my side of the car before realising there is no steering wheel!) we headed out of Vegas and onto the highway for our 300 mile drive.

There was a lot of open road surrounded by amazing landscapes of huge rock formations - one minute there's nothing around for miles and miles and then a McDonalds is on the side of the road - totally nuts view if you wish to stop and have a big Mac!  It took us a little longer than planned to reach Sedona as we stopped on route a few times for photo ops and of couse toliet breaks - I must have the smallest bladder in the world....note to self must contact the Guinness Book of Records to check if I qualify!!!

We hadn't booked a hotel (and haven't done now until we pick up the Winnebago on the 25 June!) so we are playing it by ear - exciting yet slightly scary.  We first stopped off at a beautiful ranch with wood cabins, unfortunately they were all fully booked until 9 June - okay so maybe this booking on the spur of the moment thing won't be as easy as we thought!  

We then go further down the mountain to another log cabin site, they have two cabins available complete with fire places and jacuzzi, the hotel staff are super friendly and let us check out the cabin before we book.  This was an adventure in itself, walking through the wooded grounds with a stream running through a creek, I thought for a moment a grizzly bear would pop out!  The cabin was amazing, 3 bedrooms, ensuite, massive tv, outdoor jacuzzi, slightly out of our price range for one night but fab just to see it:-)  

We eventually decided upon an independent hotel called Orchards Inn, we asked for a room with a kingsize bed (Oli being nearly 6'2 and all), as the receptionist was checking the computer for availability I noticed she was wearing fab bright pink nail varnish and genuinely complimented her on it.  She seemed slightly shy but then said she could put us in one of their suites and discount it to the normal room rate and give us two vouchers for complimentary breakfast and a 20% discount voucher at their restaraunt - blimey I didn't even have to mention the "we're celebrating our 2nd wedding anniversary' blah blah blah, how nice of her:-)  The room overlooks the red rock national park, it's too dark now to take a photo but will do tomorrow - Oli said it would be nice to watch the sunrise...it's at 5:15am so better get an earlyish night!  Night night!

Oli and the Beast!

Miles driven so far 600, 9,400 to go (approx)!!

J&O