Day 15 - King of Bling!

Considering we didn't get to the Heartbreak Hotel until 2am, and by the time we checked in, got bags to the room, unpacked etc we didn't get to sleep until 3am, after a good night's rest I woke up bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.  The anticipation of seeing Elvis' Graceland mansion and finally walking in Memphis gave me a spring in my step and I felt like a kid on Christmas morning (kid?  Who am I kidding?  I felt like ME on Christmas morning!)

While checking into the hotel late last night, in my tired state I seemed to remember thinking it was the funkiest, kitschest lobby I had ever seen.  When we went back downstairs this morning my memory hadn't disappointed me - it was just as kitsch and colourful as the night before.  Now my eyes were open properly and I was fully alert, I noticed things I hadn't spotted last night - for example, a pink fluffy telephone and a cute fifties TV set.

The Heartbreak Hotel is a must for any Elvis fan as it's kitted out with Elvis memorabilia everywhere, bright-coloured chaise longues in reception, its own Elvis gift shop and they even have Elvis radio.  The rooms are airy, big and bright and also have Elvis pictures tastefully framed on the walls.  I tried in vain to get one off but it wouldn't have fitted in my suitcase anyway!

Okay time to leave the hotel, after all we came to see Memphis, without a shadow of a doubt the first stop was Graceland!  Situated a stones throw away on Elvis Presley Boulevard we excitedly purchased our tickets.  To our delight not only does the tour include a visit to Elvis' home but also across the road from the famous gates were situated a whole host of Elvis museums, memorabilia, his cars and two aeroplanes!!

Now being only 32 (shock I know for you who know me but not my real age), Elvis died the year before I was born but while my friends during my early teens had New Kids on the Block and Bros posters on their walls my walls were covered in Elvis, The Beatles, Bully Holly, James Dean and Marilyn Monroe!  I was brought up on 50's and 60's music thanks to my mum and dad and although a couple of years later I was going to Take That concerts and putting posters of them up on my walls I still treasured my old memorabilia and was grateful for the musical appreciation my parents had passed down to me which I will always cherish.

You have to board a small bus to take you through the gates of Graceland (even though it's only 2 minutes walk from the entrance).  Once inside the gates it's explained that photography is permitted but without a flash and no video recording (sorry dad, really wanted to show you some footage)!

With individual headsets on to guide you around the home at your own pace it was time to go through the front door....I must tell you I was sooooo excited at this point I could have fainted and Oli had to remind me to breathe!!  It was literally magical to walk in the entrance hall, the stairs had been roped off and my charming audio guide told me the top floor is out of bounds as that was Elvis' private space and each room has a low rope so you can't get too close.  It didn't matter in the slightest as what you see is unforgettable, each room is a museum in itself.

The first room you see is the sitting room and although light, it has fluorescent colours and crazy furniture, this appears a theme throughout.  My audio tour guide informs me through my headset that Elvis decorated this house himself and is a work of art in itself - yes it's completely kitsch but totally creative which you have to respect and admire, fan or not.  I'm definitely a fan and I loved every single thing about it, the bright brash colours and individual details makes your eyes pop and you just don't know where to look next.

Working our way through the ground floor rooms you can't wait to see the next one, the famous "jungle room" with it's all-green carpet and brick waterfall is totally unique and seeing all the personal photographs and various bits and pieces really brings the rooms to life - I could practically picture Elvis sitting there twiddling his ring!

The tour gradually works its way out to the garden, around the pool area, through the racketball court which has since been converted into a trophy room.  The awards are floor to celling covering the walls entirely (this is only his awards from the 70's, the awards from the 60's take up an entire room in the house)!

Entering the house there was a real feel of electricity, walking around everyone is almost slightly in awe and then finishing the tour outside past the swimming pool was Elvis' grave - this was very emotional.

Elvis is buried there along with his mum, dad, grandma and a small stone for his twin brother who died at birth.  Elvis had this beautiful garden built as a meditation area  - I wonder if he always knew this would be his final resting place?!  Although I knew and everyone who visits Graceland knows the outcome of the tour and Elvis' life you can't prepare yourself for the somber ending to this tour.  It just feels tragic and I felt I wanted to start the tour again as he feels alive while you're walking around :-( I couldn't tell you how long we were in there as I lost all track of time, this was like being in a fantastic time warp and I didn't want it to end!

Started to get emotional again, okay so back to happy :-)  The somber atmosphere didn't last long in me after the tour, how can it when the other exhibitions around Graceland are a celebration of Elvis' life!

We spent time walking around the massive museum where loads of Elvis' cars were displayed, we saw costumes, original photographs, interviews and walking into his private plane (named Lisa Marie after his daughter) was amazing, he had customised it with sofa's, tv's, beds, dining table, bathrooms  - even the seatbelt buckles were 24 carat gold, this guy was the King of Bling!

After visiting everything on the complex we must have left about 4:45, Oli had to drag me away but we needed to catch the last shuttle bus to Sun Studios.  Memphis has even more musical geniuses to boast about, The King being the most celebrated there but Sun Studios is famous for discovering not only Elvis but such other musical talents as Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, Johnny Cash, BB King and many more.

Memphis is the city of Rhythm and Blues so after our fab tour of Sun Studios we boarded the shuttle bus (all compliments of our hotel) to Beale Street the hub of musical nightlife.  The small street is bustling with cafes, Blues bars, gift stores etc.  Music is bursting out of each and every one, making this the loudest street I've every walked down.  Harley Davidsons line the street making this a feature in itself.  Incidentally Beale St is the lyric in the song Walking in Memphis: "walking with my feet ten feet off the Beale" - never understood that line before!  Other things we saw related to that song were that Sun Studios is on "Union Avenue" and we saw the WC Handy statue who was a composer and musician widely known as "The father of the blues".

We made it back to the hotel by 8pm and with a quick wash and brush up we made our way out to dinner.  Wait for it this is exciting....for those of you that know me (believe it or not people all over the world and tuning in to my blog on a regular basis who I have never met) I LOVE pink!  In our lobby is an old fashioned pink fluffy dial telephone with diamante handset; when you lift the receiver it automatically dials up a local restaurant called Marlowe's and they tell you a PINK limo is on it's way to pick you up complimentary!!! OMG this is amazing, every restaurant in the world should have this service!!!

Sure enough the bright pink limo pulled up 10 minutes later and dropped us off outside Marlowe's:-)  It's a family-run American restaurant serving home cooked style food, I opted for a steak salad and Oli the shoulder of pulled pork which we both enjoyed.  While entering the restaurant an Elvis impersonator was mid flow during his set - although he was good he was soooo loud that our eardrums were close to bursting, everyone seemed to really be enjoying it but I was wondering how much longer he would go on for!  Being English I smiled (pinched to say the least) and we gave a massive round of applause at the end - this was through excitement that he had actually stopped!!

As their desserts were home made just like mamma used to make (not my mamma as her forte was buying swiss roll and raspberry ripple ice cream) it would have been rude to say no.  As full as we were, I couldn't have possible eaten a dessert by myself but Oli fancying Chocolate brownie and myself banana pudding neither of us were backing down so we ordered both - it now hurts to breathe!

We stepped out of the restaurant to see a line of pink limos waiting to take people back to their hotels, within 5 minutes we were back at our hotel, full, happy and ready for sleep....if only I hadn't had to write the blog, oh well it's a chance to reminisce on a truly fab day:-)  I have a real soft spot for Memphis now, it's been an amazing day all round, I've seen things I'll never forget and I'm so glad that we came here.  The city has recently fallen on hard times with the recession and floods but the people here and the city itself have a certain spirit that keeps the place magical :-)

Tomorrow sees us leaving Memphis and heading down to New Orleans, driving will take around 8 hours but the scenery should be fab as we'll be driving along the the Mississippi and hopefully find time to take a paddle steamer for a quick ride:-)

Sung "Walking in Memphis" at least 60 times today!

J&O